A little something I learned about invisible zippers

Picture from Vogue Fabrics

I was at my sewing group last week and found out about invisible zippers and my invisible zipper foot that I didn't know.

I know that zippers can come in different coil sizes and different lengths.  However I found that the largest coil size I can use with my Bernina is a #3 coil size. 

A fellow seamstress was installing an invisible zipper and was having problems with it.  That's when the shop owner bought up the fact that invisible zipper coils come in varying sizes. So of course I had to do some investigation.  So let me share some of that I've known and learned:

1. The coil size of a zipper, is the width in "mm" (millimeters) of the coils of the closed zipper.
2. The zipper size you find in your local sewing shop is a #2 (2 mm) coil size
3. Invisible zipper coil sizes range in #2 thru #6
4. The larger coil size is recommended for heavy fabrics, etc and NOT garments.  When sewing in one of these you should use your standard zipper foot and straight stitch plate.
5. If the zipper coil size is too big, the invisible zipper foot can't get close enough
6. Lightly pressing the coils, makes it easier to get coil into grooves.  Do this with a low heat so as not to damage the coils, but to make the coils easily accessible.  (I do this with every invisible zipper installation, it makes it so much easier).
7. Use a grossgrain ribbon as a facing for your zipper, to prevent it from pinching your skin when opening and closing. (Nothing hurts, and I mean HURTS!!! more than this).  I use 1 1/2 inch wide ribbon for this, and make the facing about 1 inch longer than my zipper area. Here is a description of the process from an article at University of Kentucky. 
   

   

   From: Zippers by Marjorie M. Baker, University of Kentucky

    

   
   

   
   

   To access the entire article go to Zippers, it's a "everything you ever wanted to know about      zippers!" type of article
8. I always make my invisible zippers at least 1 inch longer than the opening. It makes the installation a lot easier.
9. To shorten my zippers I tend to shorten from the bottom if it's an invisible zipper.  Some use a bar tack across near the cut end to secure the zipper end. But because invisible zippers are using a coil, I cut it from the bottom, use a bar tack and then wrap the cut end with some fabric to avoid the cut ends from catching and scratching my garment.  If you have a copy of  "The Sewtionary: An Z to Z Guide to 101 Sewing Techniques and Definitions" (page 244), it has an excellent description of the process. (You can access the entire book for free by clicking the link above.)

Happy Sewing . . . . .      

Sewing Thrift Shops - A Sewing and Thrifters Dream Come True!!!

A couple of weeks back, I took a Friday off from work and spent the day fabric shopping with a friend.  She turned me on to two Sewing Thrift shops in the Denver area!  I never knew these even existed.

Wooden Spools specialize in Quilting and Knitting supplies.  They buy and sell cotton fabrics for quilting; along with quilting supplies and lots of knitting supplies and yarn.

The store is located at 2805 South Broadway, Englewood CO.  There website is at http://www.woodenspools.com/, and they are also accessible on Facebook. 

I purchased a couple of pieces of fabric from them and a set of Perfect Patchwork Systems quilting templates.  The fabric was $1.99 a yard, and the quilt templates were only $11 bucks, a considerable savings. This store has lots of fabric, if you are a quilter this place should definitely be on your list.

Then off I went to The Craft Box  (store website). They also have a Facebook page.  It is just located at 16399 South Golden Rd.,  Golden, CO.

 Just recently I found two rolls of gridded tracing paper (Yipee!) for only approximately $10!   Both rolls had over 20 yards of paper on them. I'm still on the first roll. Typically I pay more for the art supply tracing paper that I use.  It is also a great place to find garment patterns, fabric and sewing notions. This store has more notions and crafter items than Wooden Spoons.  Just about anything you need sewing wise can possibly be found here.

I try to make a stop to each of these shops once a month.  By the way did I tell you that I LOVE THESE SHOPS!!!!!

Happy Sewing . . . .

Resizing a Vintage Pattern - Butterick 8083

As part of my goal to sew a vintage pattern a month, this dress was chosen.

  

(This is a image of the pattern I pulled from the web.)

I got this pattern from the owner of the store that I purchased my Bernina from (She knows I LOVE me some vintage patterns!).  I immediately fell in love with the back neck line. The copy I received was for a 34 bust, so I needed to increase it to a 36 bust. I use the process that I learned months ago, from the link in the side margins.

This meant I had to add 1" to both front and back.  I split this to approximately 3/8" and added them in 3 locations.  Below is a picture of the altered front and back bodice pieces: 

I've got instructions for Vintage Pattern Alterations methods linked to my "pinterest" account here:

Vintage Pattern Sewing.  I did the same alteration to the front midriff piece.  

Here is the finished dress.

Sorry for the blurry pictures, my husband is trying to learn to take the photos; He's used to an Smart Phone; but hasn't mastered my Nikon.

Pattern Review:

Pattern Description: Butterick 8083, View A

Pattern Sizing: Size 14/ bust 34, Altered up to a bust 36

Did it look like the photo/drawing on pattern once you were done sewing? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes at least for me, I am used to sewing vintage patterns.  So someone that is not familiar with the instructions in a vintage pattern might have some difficulty.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the look and feel of this pattern; specifically the scoop neckline in the back and the full skirt.

Fabric Used:  A cotton border print that I found at MetroTextiles in New York

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 
 -- upsized pattern to a 36" bust
 -- changed skirt bottom to a gathered skirt, because I wanted to make use of the border print
    The fullness of the skirt was based on the width of the lower part of the original skirt pattern
-- I underlined the entire dress, since my fabric was light weight.
-- Added grossgrain ribbon under the zipper (I've pinched myself one time to many zipping fitted bodices!).

Would you sew it again?
Yes, now that I have this sized correctly I will be making a version with short sleeves and the straight skirt out of a light weight wool.

Happy Sewing . . .

McCall 6713, the Re-do

As I said in my previous post, I fell in love with McCall 6713:
McCall 6713 - Mock Wrap Dress

This time I made it from a fabric from my stash (Sorry I can't recall where I got it from).  But this time I had plenty of fabric to do both sides of the mock wrap.

I think I may have to do this one more time with the full skirt.

Happy Sewing . . .

Vintage Pattern Revisited . . . (Simplicity 5185)

Back in January I modified a vintage Simplicity turtleneck top into a knee length dress.

At that time I mentioned that I was going to use some cable knit that I had purchased from Mood fabrics into a maxi dress.

Well I finally got around to doing it (just never got around to posting it).  I wore it to church on Sunday because it was a little cool.  So this was comfortable and warm.  To see the original review go to: Vintage Simplicity 5185

McCall 6713, The Mock Wrap

I've been sewing, just haven't been sewing.  Over the next couple of weeks, I'll be catching up on my posting.

So here is McCall 6713:

I chose to make view D with the sleeves, shortened to 3/4 length.

I also chose to underline the dress with some knit tricot that I bought months ago by the bolt from Fabric.com when it was 50% off.  So of course I bought an two bolts one in black and in ivory.

Last year my husband and I went to LA, and of course I made a stop at Michael Levin's  by the Pound store, and found this amazing fabric to make the dress from:

 

Since this was from the bargain bin, I had to work with what I had, so there wasn't quite enough for

me to to two layers to the mock-wrap piece, so I used some of the black tricot for the backside of the mock-wrap.

So here is the final dress: 

Pattern Review:

Pattern Description:  McCall 6713, View D

Pattern Sizing: Size 14/ bust 36

Did it look like the photo/drawing on pattern once you were done sewing: Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? 

  I love this pattern, and the fit is awesome.

Fabric Used:  tricot for underlining from Fabric.com, spandex knit from Michael Levine's Loft

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 

  -- One thing I did do was add some tricot fusible interfacing around the neckline, to keep if from 

       stretching when the underlining was sewn around the neckline and front opening.

  -- Also added width in the hip area to accommodate my hips/rear.

  -- Added 6 inches to length.

  

  -- Did back layer of mock wrap piece in black tricot (ran out of fabric).

Would you sew it again?   YES!, I've already done so, and will be posting it to blog.

Happy Sewing . . . .

A Style-Arc Pattern for Free - Ann's T-Top

Hi all,

Don't know what you have planned for a Saturday; but I plan to sew for a bit, go to the local Wa-Shonaji quilt show at the Blair Caldwell Library in Denver, and then prepare for the classes that I am teaching this fall.

As I was organizing my sewing strategy yesterday, I am across a free pattern offer from Style-Arc and Gorgeous fabrics.  It's the Ann's T-Top:

 

Style-Arc/Gorgeous Fabric Free Ann's T-Top 

I've been wanting to try one of the patterns since I've heard several online sewing buddies give Style-Arc patterns good reviews.  The pattern only takes 1 yard of fabric.  The 

price is that I signup for the emails.

I'm not sure how long it will be available, but I've already. I requested a 10; but they also send you additional patterns for 1 size above and below the one you requested!

Well off I go to sew.

Happy Sewing . . . .

 

Vogue Fall 2014 V9201 - The vintage version

As I looked at te new Vogue lineup for Fall 2014.  I found this pattern:  

I immediately decided that I wanted a copy of this pattern.  However, as I perused my Vintage Pattern stash.  I came across this mail order pattern.

It looks a lot like the Vogue pattern above.  The key difference between the two is that the Vogue version is more fitted. The plus side is that the vintage version will be easier to make.   I'm thinking that I'll have to add this to my vintage sewing list.

What's the saying, "Everything Old is New Again!!"

Happy Sewing . . . ..

Vintage Sewing Pledge 2014

Just recently I cam across the Vintage Sewing Pledge (badge is in my side menu). The pledge is to make at least 5 sewing patterns in 2014.  I'm a little late joining; but don't think I'll have a problem meeting the pledge.

The blog is written by Marie at "A Stitch Odyssey". 

The patterns that I am considering making and already have the fabric allotted for: 

Vogue 794 (which has recently be reprinted by Vogue; I got my hands on this little beauty a couple of years ago):

The other pattern I'm looking at is Vogue 1194.  I finally found a artificial black fur (that looks real!) to put on the end of the scarf.  And as natural, I have an overstock of wool in my stash to use for it.

 

 

Another pattern that I have fabric for is Vogue 7190:

 

Add caption

 

 

Finally, I'm also hoping to get to this Advance 9522: 

 

 

 

Wish me luck and I'll let you know how it goes!

 

Happy Sewing . . . . .

 

My version of the Maxi

After seeing Mimi’s version of a maxi with with a front slit, I thought I’d give it a try.  It looks so comfy and easy to wear.
I had used this fabric to make a strapless dress in its previous incarnation.
 
I never wore the dress, since I just wasn't comfortable with it.  It had elastic above the bust and at the waistline, and I always had this nightmare of me stepping on the hem and it sliding down.  So I decided to reconstruct it. 

After taking the strapless maxi apart; I took McCall 6752 and altered it to come up with my own maxi. View D has a similar styling above the waist.

      
I changed the skirt portion.  I wanted a little more fullness at the bottom, so I cut the bottom half 3 sizes larger than the size I needed and tapered it to the appropriate waist size.  Of course I had to add extra length to get it to the floor length that I wanted.

I had a black leather belt that I chose to use with the dress, and a pair of gladiator sandals.  Here is my front slit maxi dress:

Happy Sewing . . .

Black and White coloring in my life

Remember Simplicity 2702 and the "fish" dress? 

Well I had a piece of black/white stripe fabric in my stash:



I found this fabric at a couple of years ago at an estate sale.  Originally, I thought I'd make a skirt from it,  but decided this dress would work nicely out of this fabric.

  

Front View                                                     Back View

After the first stitching of this pattern, this became an even quicker sew.
A couple of days ago I did a stop at my local DSW, and found the perfect shoes to go with this dress. they are black and white like the dress:

      

As for the 4th of July, I've decided to celebrate by doing a sewing marathon.  I just altered McCall 6713, and finished it last night.

Happy Sewing and Hope you had a joyful 4th of July . . . . .

A Detour from Garment Sewing . . .

Most of the time I'm sewing garments; however, I have been known to dabble in quilting.   During the  past couple of days, I've been doing some hand applique for a quilt top.   When I was a little girl in Mississippi, I remember my maternal grandmother making quilts from rags and old pieces of clothing.  Then all the women would come over and the "smoke house" (where they smoked meat) became a quilting house.  She had a quilt frame that was hung from the ceiling and they would all hand quilt or tie-off the quilts. One of her favorite quilt tops to do was "Sun Bonnet Sue".  Anytime I see her, I just automatically start to smile and think of my grandmother.   During the time I've been somewhat incapacitated, I decided to do some hand quilting.  I could keep my little box with me and stitch a block or two.  I've only got two left to complete and then I can piece the top. I purchased some batik fat quarters in varying colors from Joan Fabrics when they were on sale for $1.00.   NOTE: If you are a teacher be sure to get your teacher discount card.  It gets you 15% off your total purchase, and is good for an entire year.   Here are some of the squares I’ve completed:





I think they are just adorable.  Sunbonnet Sue is a weak spot for me.  She brings back such fond memories of my grandmother.  I got a chance to bring together to of my favorite loves: my grandmother and sewing.
Happy Sewing . . . .

When is a muslin, not a muslin?

When it fits you the first time and its made out of this adorable “fish” print:

I decided that I needed some loose fitting dresses, as I am still dealing with the shingles.

Since I had the fish-fabric in my stash from many years ago when my daughter was small, I figured I’d use it to make a muslin from. Well turns out the muslin turned out nicely and was perfect fit.  So I decided to keep it as a dress.

I also found a pair of adorable flats with an ankle strap on them to wear with the dress.  The shoes are red and appear to be out of a wool.  They are call Penny Loves Kenny Shoes and are called “Gyrta”.   I found these at Off Broadway Shoes for only $9.00.
 

Simplicity 2702 – Pattern Review:

Did it look like the photo? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? I found it very easy to stitch together.  It took only about 2 hours total (that was with me hand-stitching the hem and joke facing).  One change that I did make in the construction was attaching the yoke to the dress.  I attached it in 3 sections: (1) around the neckline, (2) the sides of the joke, and finally (3) across the bottom of the yoke.  (I’ll have to post photos on the steps I did later).

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I made the top in a size 16.  The only change I made was adding 3 inches to the length.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I’ve already done so.  I would definitely recommend it.  It’s a quick sew, and very comfy to wear.

Conclusion:   This is a quick sew, and the dress is very comfortable to wear.



Happy Sewing . . . .