Burda Pattern 7053 - the Hourglass dress

Well I’ve been obsessed with sewing lately. This time I decided to work on some purchased patterns.

First is Burda 7053.  About a year ago I saw a maxi dress with an hourglass inset (I believe it was on “Prettytallstyle” blog; but can’t seem to find the link now).  It looked very similar to the dress below.  From the reviews on this dress, the fabric is WAY-Y-Y-Y too thin.  Also, I’m not sure if I like how the shoulders are cut in so far (maybe next summer I’ll give it a try with a similar neckline).

When I saw this Burda pattern I knew I wanted it and had to make it.  

I chose to make a fitted version just below the knee with a red/black striped inset.

It was time for me to dust off my serger (Lately I’ve been using my standard machine with a tiny

zigzag to sew knits; primarily because I am too lazy to switch machines).  I'm glad I did, it just gave it a polished look on the inside:

Finished inside seam (4 thread overlock serged seam)

Most of the construction of the dress was done using the a 4 thread overlock on the serger.  

Inside seems of front panel

The facing at the neck and sleeve openings were basted in place first and then topstitched with 1/4 inch topstitching.  The hem was done using a twin needle:

The finished dress: 

Front View

Burda 7053:

Pattern Descripton: Women's knit dress with "hourglass" insert in front, View A

Pattern Sizing: size 6 to 18 (sewed size 14 with alteration at hip)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The pattern was very easy to sew.

Fabric Used: red/black stripe ponte knit and solid black ponte knit from Hancock Fabric (part of my stash)

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I did chose to make the dress

into a midi rather than a maxi or short version.  In addition I started with a size 14; then I did my standard alterations of 6” to length,

and altered at hip line to size 18.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, this dress was very easy to sew,

it only took about 2 hours for me to complete (experienced sewer) using my serger.

Conclusion: The fit of this dress is exquisite, and is just right (not too tight, not too loose). And of course because I made it, I could get the length to the appropriate size.  I’m going to make this again, but alter the neckline for a turtle neck and add inset sleeves.  I’m also going to use a solid for the inset (I’m prepping for fall/winter).

The fact that this is essentially a princess seam knit dress means its much easier to make fitting alterations.

Happying Sewing . . .

Burda 5/2015 #125

Now for my next Burda pattern, I chose Burda 5/2015 #125:

This is a simple baby-doll style dress.  It is very comfortable to wear.

The dress has a lining and in-seam pockets in the sides of the center front section.  There are only 6 pattern pieces:

•  center front (1 cut on fold)
• side front (cut 2, cut 2 for lining)
• modified front lining so that it is a single piece (cut 1 on fold for lining)
• back ( cut 1, cut 1 on fold for lining)
• Yoke front (cut 1 on fold,  cut 1 on fold for lining)
• Yoke back (cut 2 on fold, cut 1 on fold for lining)
• sleeves (cut 4)
• pockets (cut 4)

For fabric I chose some fabric from my stash: a baby blue seersucker, a batik, and a cotton batiste for the lining.

I made a couple of changes to the overall pattern:

• The center front actually consists of approximately 16 pleats, this is not obvious from the line drawing. You have to read the instructions to realize this.

  

  Center front with pleates

•  I chose not to do the skirt lining with pleats.  Instead I did a slight gathering.  Doing a double layer of pleats just weighed the dress down. Also rather than doing the front lining in two sections, I did it as one piece on the fold.
  

  

  Front Lining

• I used cotton batiste for the lining rather than the fashion fabric.  This gave the dress a light airy feel.  I also chose to put lace at the bottom of the lining rather than doing a hem.  I felt like it gave the dress a little extra something.

  

  Lining hem with lace attached

• Since my lining is not as full as the actual dress, I left side vents in the lining.  This just aided in the walking ease without adding bulk to the dress.
  

  

  Side view of lining with vent

  
  

• I used the same fabric for the entire skirt, unlike the pictured dress.
• I added 6" to the overall length.

The keyhole at the neck adds a bit of "sexiness".  I did a handmade buttonhole loop. (Tutorial can be found here and here.)

Also in a dress like this its great to have pockets! They are hidden in the fullness of the center front.

The final dress:

Front View

Side View

 If you ask my husband, its not his favorite because it doesn't have shape.  But this is one of the most comfortable dresses to wear.  This little dress with gladiator sandals or ballerina style slippers is what I call 'no brainer dressing'.

Happy Sewing . . .

Burda #117, 7/2014 - It's Done

So yes, I've finished it!!!!  It actually was competed sometime ago; I'm just behind on my blogging.

I have cut it out, sewn it, and worn it!
The dress I was working on was this one from the 7/2014 issue:

I had this fabric in my stash; purchased from Colorado Fabrics in 2014,  I had just over 5 yards.  This dress took only about 2 1/2 yards since the fabric was 60" wide.

If you've ever sewn something from Burda Magazine before, then you know they are not for the faint 

of heart. The biggest issue with Burda Magazine patterns is that the instructions are "open to interpretation", so to speak.

The biggest obstacle with this dress was attaching the tie collar.  

The instructions for the collar attachment (bullet item 2 in image) are an example of the type of sewing instructions that are provided for garment #117:

My interpretation: 

1. "Beginning at marked hem line base longer edge of right collar piece from point to lower seam mark., to front edge of right front, right side facing. - the lower seam mark must meet point of neck. Stitch center front seam below seam mark. "
This means to stitch the right collar into the center front seam. Matching point of collar to the center
seam mark at the v-neck opening of the center front. ( I had to really study the line drawing to understand this one):

2. "On the right collar piece, form a loop so that both seam marks lie together."
Leave a slight opening at the right collar just where the seam mark is at the v-neck opening.  This will be used to anchor the left collar-tie extension.

3. "Then baste collar to neck edge, leaving left collar and extending past point of neck.  Stitch collar to neck edge.  Press center seam open, laying collar on left front. "
Stitch the collar in place from seam mark on right front to seam mark on left front.  Leaving the "tie" extension hanging left collar.

4. "Press allowances of collar attachment seam onto collar.  Clip seam allowances of collar at point of neck.  Fold collar on marked fold line wrong side facing in.  Turn inner edge under and baste over attachment seam.  Working from outer side of garment, stitch along seam, thereby catching the inner edge"
In simpler terms, one edge of collar to neckline, then fold the other edge over  (wrong side to wrong side) and use a blind hem to stitch this over the seam line.  This only should occur between the V-neck seam line markings.  Remember the left collar tie extension should be hanging loose.  (I chose to do all of my stitching of the hems and collar facing by hand).

5. "Leaving remaining collar edges unfinished.  Fold left collar end together and pass through loop on right half of collar."
Finally this states to leave the collar edges unfinished (I choose to put a small rolled him -done by hand- on my ties; I'm just not too crazy about  unfinished edges).  Finally slide the left collar tie into the opening that you left at the seam line on the right collar.

It's not very obvious from the instructions that the intent is that the right collar piece be sewn into the center front seam is it.  I was only able to realize this by closely studying the line drawing. On my "muslin" I left both tie ends to hang loose; rather including in the seam.

To finish the edges, I used hand stitching on the collar portion:

Collar edge with hand-rolled hem

The sleeves and dress hemline were done on machine using the blind hem stitch: 

Hem of dress; can't see the stitching using the blind hem stitch

Blind Hem Stitch

And Voila, here is the finished dres:

Finished Burda #117, 7/2014

Fabric Store Friday: The Cotton Patch, Brookhaven Mississippi

Recently I went to Mississippi for vacation.  My mom wanted to go to this little fabric store she had heard of.  It was called "The Cotton Patch"

The Cotton Patch

838 Auburn Drive Sw
Brookhaven, MS 39601 - View Map

Phone: (601) 823-1000

When you first drive past it doesn't appear to be much to it.  But as you pull into the parking lot you notice that there are additional buildings.  The store is actually a collection of 6 buildings similar to this one.

Each building has a different collection of fabric.  One building is full of antiques and custom made items:

There are 3 buildings full of upholstery, home decor, fashion fabrics, and notions:

Then there was the building full of quilting fabrics, this one actually used to be a 3 bedroom home and every room is packed with quilting fabrics and notions:

Then there was the main building (the first picture) which had flannels, etc in it (Sorry, I didn't take pictures inside that building.  My mom and I were in fabric heaven!

I asked one of the sales workers how long the shop had been open.  She said it was for at least 30 years (How did I miss this!).  I will definitely be making this a stop when I go to Mississippi.

So if you ever are in the Brookhaven, MS area this place is a must see!

Happy Sewing . .

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Tutorial Dish Washer Magnet. . .

Last week I went to the Bernina Creative Center and took a class on using my Bernina 880.  I'll never out grow this machine, as there is functionality to it that I had never used. (I'll post more on it later).

When I returned I was in the mode to do some embroidery.  So I decided that I would create a Clean/Dirty magnet to use on my dish washer.  When the "clean side is up, it means dishes need to be removed from the dishwasher.  When the "dirty" side is up, it means dishes need to be washed.

Initially we had been using a magnet: if it was on the dishwasher, the dishes were dirty; otherwise they were clean:

Hospital Magnet that was used to indicate clean/dirty dishes

Completed Dirty Dishes Side

Completed Clean Dishes

If you wish to create this, here are the instructions.

Supplies:

•  buckram for lining (adds stiffness to magnet)
• 2 different pieces of  fabric, each large enough to fit in embroidery hoop, 1 for each side (I used leftover flannel from a quilt)
• iron-on fusible interfacing to use as backing to fabric
• fabric for binding or use prepackaged binding
• stabilier used for machine embroidery
• embroidery thread
• 3x8 inch strip of muslin

 Instructions:

1. Select 2 designs to use for your magnet (1 for the clean side other for dirty side). Use your embroidery machine or embroidery software to generate your design for each side of the magnet.  Include lettering to indicate clean or dirty.
2. Iron the fusible interfacing to each side of the fabric to be used as the front/back of the magnet
3. Prepare side 1 for emboidery: place fused fabric and stabilizer in hope and embroider.
4. Repeat step 3 for side 2.
5. Trim fabric peices 1 and 2 to the finished sixe for your magnet.  In my case my magnet finished size is 5" by 8"

 

1. Add buckram to backside of each fabric piece. (Note, I only added to one piece of the fabric, but recommend you add it to both pieces)

Fabric piece with buckram applied

Magnets purchased from Staples Office Supply store

1. Fold the 3x8 inch muslin in half lengthwise, and insert magnets. ( I used round magnets; however I would recommend a magnetic strip).  Make sure that the magnet doesn't have any adhesive on either side. You need to make two of these; one for the top and one for the bottom.
   

   

   3x8 muslin folded in half

   You should make two of these strips that will be attached to one of the fabric pieces. The magnets should be inserted into the strip.  Since I used individual round magnets, I stitched holding lines on either side to hold them in place in the strip (NOTE: you will have buckram on the back of your embroidered piece).

   

   Fabric piece with magnetic strips applied

1. Next turn the 2 fabric pieces so they are wrong sides together.  Curve the corners to make it easier to apply binding.  Your final step will be to apply bias binding around the edges.
    
   Once this is done you will have a completed dishwasher magnet that is very sturdy: 
   
   
   
   The magnet in use:
   
   
   Happy Sewing,
   Sandy

Tracing Your Burda Magazine Pattern. . .

So here is how I trace my Burda Magazine Patterns.

The supplies you'll need are as follows:

• Burda Magazine Pattern with inserts
• Set of colored pens or pencils
• Highlighter, in color of your choice
• Role of tracing paper
• Some people use formal pattern tracing paper; I just buy a role of tracing paper from my local art supply store (its much cheaper)
• Grided ruler, the ruler must have lines that are as granular as 1/8 inch.  I find quilting rulers to be excellent for this.  The ruler will be used to add your seam allowances.  There are other ways to do this, such as a 2-wheel tracing wheel.  We'll discuss this in detail later.

The first step is to go to extract the pattern sheets from the center of the magazine.  Notice that in the ledger of the sheet it indicates there are 4 sheets on this page from the magazine.

Then go to the instruction section for the pattern you've chosen.  I've chosen to trace pattern #117 from the 7/2014 issue of Burda Magazine.  On this sheet it will tell you where to find our pattern peices: 

Sectioned off in a rectangular box.  In this section you will see a legend for tracing your pattern.  In this case it indicates "Green pattern line, sheet C; Pattern pieces 21 to 23".  This indicates the sheet that you should go to along with the pattern piece numbers.  For this pattern there are 3 pattern pieces on sheet C.  They are pattern pieces 21 - 23, and drawn in green.  Also take note of what size pattern you need to trace.  (NOTE; in the first couple of pages in the "Instructions" section is a page entitled "Taking Measurements". Use the information in the chart to determine which size is best for you to trace based on your measurements).

 Locate Sheet C and separate it along the dotted line.  (Its easier to deal with just this sheet, versus trying to manipulate the entire page).

When you first look at the C sheet it seems very confusing.  How in the world are you going to figure out which of these lines are your pattern pieces?  Remember the pattern instructions say "GREEN PATTERNLINE".  Also it stated pattern pieces 21-23.  If you look along the border you will see
numbers listed in different colors.  So all I need to do is search for the Green 21, 22, and 23 numbers.
For my pattern, these green numbers are across the bottom of the C page.  DO NOT CUT THE PATTERN PIECES FROM THE PATTERN SHEET!

So all you need to do is go across from the number an you will find your pattern piece.  In my case
I have located the  pattern piece #22 near the Green 22 number.  I then take a highlighter and outlined the pattern in the size that I which to trace along with all marking on the pattern piece, such as waistline, etc. (in this case I used a yellow marker because my green marker was dried up.  You can use whatever color of highlighter you are most comfortable with).

Next place your tracing paper sheet on top of the highlighted pattern piece.  As I said I use tracing paper bought from a art supply store. You can get it in varying widths and yardages on a roll.
As you can see from the picture, beause of the highlighting, it is now VERY easy to see all of the lines for the pattern piece your are tracing.  By the way I like to use weight to hold my tracing paper onto the pattern sheet.

Now take one of your colored pens/pencils and trace the highlighted line for each pattern piece.  Be sure to transfer all markings onto the tracing paper and label each pattern piece.

 Remember, Burda magazine patterns DON'T INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES!  So you need to add them.  Some people prefer to add the seam allowances when cutting out the fabric.  To that it is best to use a dual tracing wheel, similar to one of the two below.  Or you can use a rotary cutter with a cutting guide.

Dual tracing wheel with a chalking cartridge .  Adjust the location of the chalking wheel.
After pinning the pattern to the fabric; align the white tracing wheel on the
seamline.  The chalk cartridge will mark your cuttingline.

Dual Tracing Wheel (image from Sewcury.com).
The wheel locations are adjustable.
Also this Dual tracing wheel requires the use of tracing paper

I prefer add my seam allowances onto my pattern pieces. To do so I use a quilting ruler that has grid lines the entire length to do this this.

For my pattern I need a 5/8 inch seam on sides; 3/8 on neckline, 3/4 on sleeve hems, and 1 1/4 for dress hemline.  Just place your seamline on the appropriate marking on your ruler.  Then use a pen of a different color to mark your cutting lines (I've use black pen here).

Add your cutting lines with the appropriate seam allowances on the entire pattern piece.  Now you can cut out your pattern pieces from the tracing paper and they are ready to use.  From here you can use them as you would a purchased pattern.

I'm off to cut out my fabric and work on my dress.

Happy Sewing. . . .