Vintage Mccall 4918

McCall 4918 is one of the many vintage style patterns that I own:

I made this pattern back in 2009 out of a green dupioni silk (see here).

But I never posted the finished outfit (AUGH!!!!).  This pattern was from a box of patterns that I had received from my Mom.  The pattern is a bust 34, which is too small for me. So I had to grade the pattern up a size to a bust 36.  I used a process very similar to the one described in the Threads online article: Making the Grade. 

 I had some Ankara fabric that I purchased from Hancock Fabrics about a year ago from only $2/yard (One of the benefits of being in Colo.!).  I was waiting for just the right pattern to use the fabric with.

This pattern has a directional design, so I'm a stickler for matching my patterns, which means I layered out each piece one at a time to get the pattern correctly matched at the seamline.  Because of this I 

ended re-spacing the pleats so that my design could match on the sides and at the center front and back.  Believe it or not there is a seam down the center front here:

Front Bodice View

In the original pattern, the zipper is a side-zipper under the arm.  In the previous version I put the zipper in the side seam; however, this was very uncomfortable for me.  So on this iteration I moved the zipper to the center back and hid a fold over opening in the pleats: 

Back view of top with invisible zipper

Another thing I did was to use bias binding on all of the unfinished edges (after making Burda 7053, I just liked that "finished" look on the inside).  It took some time; but was worth the effort.  Besides I have LOTS of bias binding in just about every color you can image that was given to me by my Pastor's wife some time ago).  I will have to do this more often on my vintage dresses!

Here is a full view of the completed dress:

Full Front View

Full Back View 

Pattern Description:  Vintage Mccall 4918
Pattern Sizing:  Pattern is a bust size 34; I had to grade it up to a 36 bust
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?  
Yes, these is a vintage pattern, so for a beginner they may seem difficult.  But I found it easy to assemble.  One thing I recommend when working with Vintage patterns is to read thru the instructions prior to sewing.  Also if you are new to sewing vintage patterns a copy of an older sewing instruction book is a PLUS.  One that I have is; "Bishop Method of Sewing":

Picture from Amazon.com

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I really don't have any dislikes about this pattern.  For this particular make of the pattern I had to cut out each of my pieced individually because of the directional fabric.  If you look at the front and back bodice pictures, you can't tell there is a center seam in the front piece.  (I'll have to do a post on how I matched up the patterns, its easy to do for plaids, but there is definitely more involved when you have a more intricate fabric pattern

Fabric Used:  Cotton Ankara fabric from Hancock

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:   By this being a smaller vintage pattern I had to make several changes.

1. upsized to a 36 bust
2. lengthen by 6 inches
3. Re-adjusted the pleats in the skirt because of the pattern grading
4. I also finished all of my raw edges with seam binding |(just wanted to try something different)

Would you sew it again? 
 Yes, this is already my second time making this pattern.  It wears very comfortably.

Would you recommend it to others? yes, if you are into Vintage Patterns

 Conclusion: I love the vintage dresses with full skirts.  They are such a nice change from the fitted skirts and are very comfortable to wear

Happy Sewing .  .  .