I have cut it out, sewn it, and worn it!
The dress I was working on was this one from the 7/2014 issue:
I had this fabric in my stash; purchased from Colorado Fabrics in 2014, I had just over 5 yards. This dress took only about 2 1/2 yards since the fabric was 60" wide.
If you've ever sewn something from Burda Magazine before, then you know they are not for the faint
If you've ever sewn something from Burda Magazine before, then you know they are not for the faint
of heart. The biggest issue with Burda Magazine patterns is that the instructions are "open to interpretation", so to speak.
The biggest obstacle with this dress was attaching the tie collar.
The instructions for the collar attachment (bullet item 2 in image) are an example of the type of sewing instructions that are provided for garment #117:
My interpretation:
My interpretation:
1. "Beginning at marked hem line base longer edge of right collar piece from point to lower seam mark., to front edge of right front, right side facing. - the lower seam mark must meet point of neck. Stitch center front seam below seam mark. "
This means to stitch the right collar into the center front seam. Matching point of collar to the center
seam mark at the v-neck opening of the center front. ( I had to really study the line drawing to understand this one):
2. "On the right collar piece, form a loop so that both seam marks lie together."
Leave a slight opening at the right collar just where the seam mark is at the v-neck opening. This will be used to anchor the left collar-tie extension.
3. "Then baste collar to neck edge, leaving left collar and extending past point of neck. Stitch collar to neck edge. Press center seam open, laying collar on left front. "
Stitch the collar in place from seam mark on right front to seam mark on left front. Leaving the "tie" extension hanging left collar.
4. "Press allowances of collar attachment seam onto collar. Clip seam allowances of collar at point of neck. Fold collar on marked fold line wrong side facing in. Turn inner edge under and baste over attachment seam. Working from outer side of garment, stitch along seam, thereby catching the inner edge"
In simpler terms, one edge of collar to neckline, then fold the other edge over (wrong side to wrong side) and use a blind hem to stitch this over the seam line. This only should occur between the V-neck seam line markings. Remember the left collar tie extension should be hanging loose. (I chose to do all of my stitching of the hems and collar facing by hand).
5. "Leaving remaining collar edges unfinished. Fold left collar end together and pass through loop on right half of collar."
Finally this states to leave the collar edges unfinished (I choose to put a small rolled him -done by hand- on my ties; I'm just not too crazy about unfinished edges). Finally slide the left collar tie into the opening that you left at the seam line on the right collar.
It's not very obvious from the instructions that the intent is that the right collar piece be sewn into the center front seam is it. I was only able to realize this by closely studying the line drawing. On my "muslin" I left both tie ends to hang loose; rather including in the seam.
To finish the edges, I used hand stitching on the collar portion:
This means to stitch the right collar into the center front seam. Matching point of collar to the center
seam mark at the v-neck opening of the center front. ( I had to really study the line drawing to understand this one):
2. "On the right collar piece, form a loop so that both seam marks lie together."
Leave a slight opening at the right collar just where the seam mark is at the v-neck opening. This will be used to anchor the left collar-tie extension.
3. "Then baste collar to neck edge, leaving left collar and extending past point of neck. Stitch collar to neck edge. Press center seam open, laying collar on left front. "
Stitch the collar in place from seam mark on right front to seam mark on left front. Leaving the "tie" extension hanging left collar.
4. "Press allowances of collar attachment seam onto collar. Clip seam allowances of collar at point of neck. Fold collar on marked fold line wrong side facing in. Turn inner edge under and baste over attachment seam. Working from outer side of garment, stitch along seam, thereby catching the inner edge"
In simpler terms, one edge of collar to neckline, then fold the other edge over (wrong side to wrong side) and use a blind hem to stitch this over the seam line. This only should occur between the V-neck seam line markings. Remember the left collar tie extension should be hanging loose. (I chose to do all of my stitching of the hems and collar facing by hand).
5. "Leaving remaining collar edges unfinished. Fold left collar end together and pass through loop on right half of collar."
Finally this states to leave the collar edges unfinished (I choose to put a small rolled him -done by hand- on my ties; I'm just not too crazy about unfinished edges). Finally slide the left collar tie into the opening that you left at the seam line on the right collar.
It's not very obvious from the instructions that the intent is that the right collar piece be sewn into the center front seam is it. I was only able to realize this by closely studying the line drawing. On my "muslin" I left both tie ends to hang loose; rather including in the seam.
| Collar edge with hand-rolled hem |
The sleeves and dress hemline were done on machine using the blind hem stitch:
| Hem of dress; can't see the stitching using the blind hem stitch |
| Blind Hem Stitch |
And Voila, here is the finished dres:
| Finished Burda #117, 7/2014 |
This is so cute. I want to make it.... But I really HATE Burda. And hate is not too strong of a word....
ReplyDeleteGorgeous and great job!
ReplyDelete