sewing and half.com

Well recently I had checked out a book from the library on fitting: "Every Sewers Guide To Perfect Fit" and really liked it, but had to return it. So after looking at one of the many blogs I peruse (Cellie's Pants, to be specific), I read about half.com.

Needless to say, off I went, and have just order the following:

They have already shipped. It came to about $6 per book with postage. So guess what I'll be doing over the Memorial day week (in addition to sewing) - I'll be reading about sewing. What a way to spend a weekend

The dress muslin

I began my work on Vogue 8491. I got the initial paper pattern marked up. I'm doing a muslin. The initial pass was rather loose thru the hips, I had to go back and taper it some:


I've still got some more fine tuning to do, but am pretty pleased with it. I raised the armhole by 1 inch but I'm going to lower it back, and will add a little more ease thru the waist. Well I guess enough sewing on the muslin for the night.

I'm looking forward to the extended weekend so that I can sew.

Skirt pattern alterations done!

Well as part of this fitting class, I've also fitted a skirt. This method of using a different pattern size for the back piece worked amazingly well for the skirt. I just had to add a dart in the back pattern piece, and take the pattern in at the waist. I also added 2 inches to the length.

The pattern that I altered is:



The fabric I'm using is a piece I purchased from Vogue Fabrics Store in Chicago, IL:

I had a difficult time deciding which side to use the right or wrong side. (I liked the green color on the wrong side). But finally decided to go with the black/white-stripes. Turns out the stripes were on the cross-wise rather than length-wise, but don't like the thought of cross-wise stripes.

I just finished cutting out the skirt, and should have the skirt made by the end of the week. I'm contemplating putting a lining in the skirt (although the pattern doesn't call for one).

I also got a muslin done for the dress in my previous post (Vogue 8491). I ended up grading from a small upper body to the larger lower body back piece. I purchased a piece of designer fabric, Carnet de Mode, to make the dress out of:











Then it's on to my first set of pants done from the pants muslin alterations.

International Magazines Arrived

Last week I ordered 3 international magazines: Patrones #266, KnipMode - May 2008; Moden Diana, #27. I already have a dress in the Patrones, a top and suit in the KnipMode chosen to make.

Just more things to feed my addition to sewing!
Oh well, its back to my pants muslin for now.

The Pants Muslin Journey - Part 1

Well we did a first pass of my pants muslin. The muslin was cut to my altered pattern piece; the black lines are the alterations done to the muslin.

For the front piece I wound up with a size 14, and we removed the dart. We also had to bring it in considerably at the waistline.


The next part was the pant back which I ended up with a size 20. We had to add a dart, and
then taper the seam in at the center back to handle the waist:


The fit was totally awesome (sorry I didn't take pix with the muslin on). I'm currently making a new muslin to the new stitching lines. I'm having to add about 3 inches at the back waistline so we can check the fit thru the back when seated. I'll be sure and take pictures then.

Well I finished the first phase of my fitting class. I decided to do a Muslin of pants first (this is where I have my biggest problem in fitting). The pattern that I am going to use is Butterick 4292. Everyone else in the class is using a Vogue pattern. Turns out the Butterick pattern required less overall alterations; however, I did have to alter the flat pattern in the following areas:

• my back pattern piece is 2 sizes larger than the front (sz 14 in the front size 20 in the back)
• major alterations in the waistline (which will have to be done in the muslin) to reduce it. I'll probably end up with quite a few darts.
• lengthen the leg
• add extra height near the back center seam, to avoid what I refer to as the potential "plumbers crack".

I've got the fabric to make my muslin; so, we'll see how the fitting goes next week.

I'm also fitting a shell dress for a piece of designer fabric I purchased. This will be interesting since I have to do so much widening thru the hips/back, and the dress is a single front/back pattern pieces.

Drooling for New Patterns

Just got thru looking at the new Vogue Patterns. I already have a wish list:

Vogue 1045: I've got the perfect piece of silk dupioni for this one!















This one is so-o-o me: Vogue 8488














I've just got to add these 2 to my vintage collection:


Vogue 1043












Vogue 1044















Now all I need is a sell at JoAnne's or Hancocks fabrics!