Thursday, September 10, 2015

Fabric Store Friday: The Cotton Patch, Brookhaven Mississippi

Recently I went to Mississippi for vacation.  My mom wanted to go to this little fabric store she had heard of.  It was called "The Cotton Patch"
The Cotton Patch
838 Auburn Drive Sw
Brookhaven, MS 39601
When you first drive past it doesn't appear to be much to it.  But as you pull into the parking lot you notice that there are additional buildings.  The store is actually a collection of 6 buildings similar to this one.
Each building has a different collection of fabric.  One building is full of antiques and custom made items:


There are 3 buildings full of upholstery, home decor, fashion fabrics, and notions:





Then there was the building full of quilting fabrics, this one actually used to be a 3 bedroom home and every room is packed with quilting fabrics and notions:

Then there was the main building (the first picture) which had flannels, etc in it (Sorry, I didn't take pictures inside that building.  My mom and I were in fabric heaven!

I asked one of the sales workers how long the shop had been open.  She said it was for at least 30 years (How did I miss this!).  I will definitely be making this a stop when I go to Mississippi.

So if you ever are in the Brookhaven, MS area this place is a must see!

Happy Sewing . .

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Tuesday, September 8, 2015

Tutorial Dish Washer Magnet. . .

Last week I went to the Bernina Creative Center and took a class on using my Bernina 880.  I'll never out grow this machine, as there is functionality to it that I had never used. (I'll post more on it later).

When I returned I was in the mode to do some embroidery.  So I decided that I would create a Clean/Dirty magnet to use on my dish washer.  When the "clean side is up, it means dishes need to be removed from the dishwasher.  When the "dirty" side is up, it means dishes need to be washed.

Initially we had been using a magnet: if it was on the dishwasher, the dishes were dirty; otherwise they were clean:
Hospital Magnet that was used to indicate clean/dirty dishes
Completed Dirty Dishes Side
Completed Clean Dishes

If you wish to create this, here are the instructions.

Supplies:
  •  buckram for lining (adds stiffness to magnet)
  • 2 different pieces of  fabric, each large enough to fit in embroidery hoop, 1 for each side (I used leftover flannel from a quilt)
  • iron-on fusible interfacing to use as backing to fabric
  • fabric for binding or use prepackaged binding
  • stabilier used for machine embroidery
  • embroidery thread
  • 3x8 inch strip of muslin
 Instructions:
  1. Select 2 designs to use for your magnet (1 for the clean side other for dirty side). Use your embroidery machine or embroidery software to generate your design for each side of the magnet.  Include lettering to indicate clean or dirty.
  2. Iron the fusible interfacing to each side of the fabric to be used as the front/back of the magnet
  3. Prepare side 1 for emboidery: place fused fabric and stabilizer in hope and embroider.
  4. Repeat step 3 for side 2.
  5. Trim fabric peices 1 and 2 to the finished sixe for your magnet.  In my case my magnet finished size is 5" by 8"
 
  1. Add buckram to backside of each fabric piece. (Note, I only added to one piece of the fabric, but recommend you add it to both pieces)
Fabric piece with buckram applied
Magnets purchased from Staples Office Supply store
  1. Fold the 3x8 inch muslin in half lengthwise, and insert magnets. ( I used round magnets; however I would recommend a magnetic strip).  Make sure that the magnet doesn't have any adhesive on either side. You need to make two of these; one for the top and one for the bottom.
    3x8 muslin folded in half
    You should make two of these strips that will be attached to one of the fabric pieces. The magnets should be inserted into the strip.  Since I used individual round magnets, I stitched holding lines on either side to hold them in place in the strip (NOTE: you will have buckram on the back of your embroidered piece).
    Fabric piece with magnetic strips applied
  1. Next turn the 2 fabric pieces so they are wrong sides together.  Curve the corners to make it easier to apply binding.  Your final step will be to apply bias binding around the edges.
    Once this is done you will have a completed dishwasher magnet that is very sturdy: 

    The magnet in use:
    Happy Sewing,
    Sandy

Saturday, July 4, 2015

Tracing Your Burda Magazine Pattern. . .

So here is how I trace my Burda Magazine Patterns.

The supplies you'll need are as follows:

  • Burda Magazine Pattern with inserts
  • Set of colored pens or pencils
  • Highlighter, in color of your choice
  • Role of tracing paper
    • Some people use formal pattern tracing paper; I just buy a role of tracing paper from my local art supply store (its much cheaper)
  • Grided ruler, the ruler must have lines that are as granular as 1/8 inch.  I find quilting rulers to be excellent for this.  The ruler will be used to add your seam allowances.  There are other ways to do this, such as a 2-wheel tracing wheel.  We'll discuss this in detail later.



The first step is to go to extract the pattern sheets from the center of the magazine.  Notice that in the ledger of the sheet it indicates there are 4 sheets on this page from the magazine.

Then go to the instruction section for the pattern you've chosen.  I've chosen to trace pattern #117 from the 7/2014 issue of Burda Magazine.  On this sheet it will tell you where to find our pattern peices: 

Sectioned off in a rectangular box.  In this section you will see a legend for tracing your pattern.  In this case it indicates "Green pattern line, sheet C; Pattern pieces 21 to 23".  This indicates the sheet that you should go to along with the pattern piece numbers.  For this pattern there are 3 pattern pieces on sheet C.  They are pattern pieces 21 - 23, and drawn in green.  Also take note of what size pattern you need to trace.  (NOTE; in the first couple of pages in the "Instructions" section is a page entitled "Taking Measurements". Use the information in the chart to determine which size is best for you to trace based on your measurements).

 Locate Sheet C and separate it along the dotted line.  (Its easier to deal with just this sheet, versus trying to manipulate the entire page).

When you first look at the C sheet it seems very confusing.  How in the world are you going to figure out which of these lines are your pattern pieces?  Remember the pattern instructions say "GREEN PATTERNLINE".  Also it stated pattern pieces 21-23.  If you look along the border you will see
numbers listed in different colors.  So all I need to do is search for the Green 21, 22, and 23 numbers.
For my pattern, these green numbers are across the bottom of the C page.  DO NOT CUT THE PATTERN PIECES FROM THE PATTERN SHEET!
So all you need to do is go across from the number an you will find your pattern piece.  In my case
I have located the  pattern piece #22 near the Green 22 number.  I then take a highlighter and outlined the pattern in the size that I which to trace along with all marking on the pattern piece, such as waistline, etc. (in this case I used a yellow marker because my green marker was dried up.  You can use whatever color of highlighter you are most comfortable with).

Next place your tracing paper sheet on top of the highlighted pattern piece.  As I said I use tracing paper bought from a art supply store. You can get it in varying widths and yardages on a roll.
As you can see from the picture, beause of the highlighting, it is now VERY easy to see all of the lines for the pattern piece your are tracing.  By the way I like to use weight to hold my tracing paper onto the pattern sheet.

Now take one of your colored pens/pencils and trace the highlighted line for each pattern piece.  Be sure to transfer all markings onto the tracing paper and label each pattern piece.
 Remember, Burda magazine patterns DON'T INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES!  So you need to add them.  Some people prefer to add the seam allowances when cutting out the fabric.  To that it is best to use a dual tracing wheel, similar to one of the two below.  Or you can use a rotary cutter with a cutting guide.
Dual tracing wheel with a chalking cartridge .  Adjust the location of the chalking wheel.
After pinning the pattern to the fabric; align the white tracing wheel on the
seamline.  The chalk cartridge will mark your cuttingline.
Dual Tracing Wheel (image from Sewcury.com).
The wheel locations are adjustable.
Also this Dual tracing wheel requires the use of tracing paper

I prefer add my seam allowances onto my pattern pieces. To do so I use a quilting ruler that has grid lines the entire length to do this this.
For my pattern I need a 5/8 inch seam on sides; 3/8 on neckline, 3/4 on sleeve hems, and 1 1/4 for dress hemline.  Just place your seamline on the appropriate marking on your ruler.  Then use a pen of a different color to mark your cutting lines (I've use black pen here).
Add your cutting lines with the appropriate seam allowances on the entire pattern piece.  Now you can cut out your pattern pieces from the tracing paper and they are ready to use.  From here you can use them as you would a purchased pattern.

I'm off to cut out my fabric and work on my dress.

Happy Sewing. . . .

Friday, July 3, 2015

A Burda Magazine Kind Of Weekend. . .

So it's the pre-July 4th day, and I'm deciding what I will be doing with my day off.  This extended weekend I've decided to focus on sewing my collection of Burda Magazine.

In an attempt to better organize my vast collection of Burda patterns, I was initially scanning the line drawing page and storing it in
OneNote.  But then I came across the BurdaVisor utility:


This is just what I needed!

It displays all of the issue contents going back to 2004!  My collection goes back to the 90's; but
hey every little bit helps!

The utility is available from http://burdavisor.ru.  Although this is in Russian, you can see it in English using this link: Burdavisor in English.

The utility doesn't require internet access to run; and is updated regularly as new issues are printed.
I've been using it for quite sometime now and have not had any problems.

StraightJacket Muse discovered this utility back in 2012 and had some nice things to say: Burda Magazine Archive

So on to my sewing . .

Last night at my sewing group meeting, I traced several Burda Patterns.  My goal is to focus on Burda Magazine collection.  I managed to trace these two patterns on yesterday:

Burda 7/2014, #117 -- Knit Dress
Burda 6/2015, #125 -- Baby Doll Dress

In a future post, I'll describe how I go about tracing my patterns from the magazine sheets.  There's a little trick to it that cuts down on the confusion of all of the intersecting lines.

Tuesday, June 23, 2015

Mine ALL Mine!!!!

I remember that line from a cartoon character or some villain in a movie.  Well that's how I feel about my sewing collection (or as my daughter calls it "stuff").

As I continue to go thru my sewing stash, I just found that I have several older editions of Vogue Patterns Magazines (back to 2009).  I kept them for articles that I was interested in.  I hate to throw them away, but at the same time I don't have any place to store them:

All of my sewing magazine from 1990 to present: Creative Needle, Sew Beautiful,  Burda,  Patrones, etc.





So voila!  My printer is also a flatbed scanner:

So I proceeded to take apart the pages, and scan in entire issues of Vogue Patterns magazine from 2012.

The only space it uses is disk space (and I have a 500G usb drive) so that's not a problem

 In the infamous words of the A-team: I LOVE IT WHEN A PLAN COMES TOGETHER!!!!

**********************************
On the Sewing front, I just completed this pattern, Kwik Sew 4027:
I made view A with the shorter sleeves.


Kwik Sew K4027

Pattern Description: Close fitting, pullover tops have V-neckline with self fabric neckband with raw edges and stitched hems. View A has full length sleeves. View B has short sleeves.

Pattern Sizing: S, M, L, XL   I made the Large, but would be better fit thru bust if I had done Medium

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes simple and straight forward.  However, be aware that the neckband is raw edges so you will use to front neckband pieces sewn together as one.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The top was an easy fit
and extremely simple to make

Fabric Used: Cotton Lycra that I've had in my stash for a year or so; this top was a muslin to see how the t-shirt fit.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I didn't make any changes this go round; but the next time I make it I would do the following:
  • next time start with Medium and add some width in the hip, so its not too snug
  • change the neck band to have a finished edge, just seemed strange to have all of the other edges (sleeves and hemline) finished but the neckline was a raw edge.  Plus when I washed it the edge curled up.

view of neckline after washing

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? The pattern was an easy make and
fit well.  I will make this again as I have problem finding t-shirts that are long enough.  Also, the v-neck did not appear to be as low cut as in the pictures.

Conclusion: I call this "no-brainer" sewing.  It's definitely an easy make with only 4 pattern pieces. Since this was considered a muslin, I will definitely be making again.

Happy Sewing!!!

Monday, June 22, 2015

Well, since I've been talking about Burda Magazines; I thought I would make a blouse from one of the issues:





Burda 11/2013; #122

The recommended fabric for the top was a charmeuse.  However, I chose to use a knit, and I chose not to make the shawl.

Why did I chose this top?  I find that tops/dresses with princess seams are easier to adjust for fitting; because you have multiple seams ( 2 additional seams in the front and back) to make adjustments for the breast, waistline, and hip areas.

I had some knit fabric that I had purchased at Colorado Fabrics during one of their sales.  It ran me about $1.00.  I figured I'd give this a try and see how it works out.  Beside this top is only going to be a muslin, right.

This top has a zipper in the side; but because I'm using a knit I didn't need it.

Here is the finished top:
Front of Top View 1
Front of Top View 2
Back of Top
I was pretty pleased with my ability to match up the designs at the princess seams.  It is very difficult for you tell where the seems are;
Close up of back seam View 1
Close up of back seam - View 2
Happy Sewing!!!!

Sunday, June 21, 2015

Vintage/Retro Sewing Style

As I continue to get my sewing room in order, I am re-discovering all of my books, notions, etc.

Today I was going thru some books and discovered this series of sewing books.  One that I found and have been reading thru is the "Simplified Systems of Sewing and Styling".

The series was authored by Doris Anderson.  The original copyright was 1948.  I was able to get my hands on copy published in 1966 (21st edition) at an estate sale.This is a set of ten lessons:





I love the older sewing books. In a lot of instances I think they better explain the how and why better than some of the new books when it comes to techniques.

I've been reading the first lesson: Selection of Patterns and Fabrics.  I found many blogs that reviews the lessons.  Lesson 1 has been reviewed here (so I won't do my own but refer you to these):

As you can tell this series appear to be pretty popular.

So I figured why not apply the principles of this series.  In the first book it talks about knowing your style and pattern selection.

Just yesterday I attended a estate sale to purchase some 1950/1960 editions of Vogue pattern magazines to get ideas on how to accessories all these vintage style garments I'm making.  Well while there, I found an ample supply of Vogue Designer patterns: 


Each of these patterns is an example of the "general line affects" that is described in Lesson 1 of these books.

  • Vogue Paris Original #1219 (1975) - This pattern utilizes the straight line, with its center front tab and center seams.  The lesson states that straight lines, ".... tend to make one look sophisticated."
  • Vogue Couturier Design #1051, Valentino (1975)- This patterns implements the straight (The button tab on the left side of the dress) and curved lines (The top stitching around the neckline).
  • Vogue Couturier Design #1121, Sybil Connolly - This patterns is an example of diagonal line.  The lesson states that the diagonal line from shoulder to hem gives the illusion of length and slenderizing.
I am definitely going to give the Sybil Connolly dress a try, I love the way it looks and the drape of the skirt.

Did I mention that I only paid 50 cents each!  The patterns have never been cut and come with the Designer Label that Vogue used to include in their designer patterns!

Now off to my sewing room . . . . .

Happy Sewing!!!!!