Saturday, July 4, 2015

Tracing Your Burda Magazine Pattern. . .

So here is how I trace my Burda Magazine Patterns.

The supplies you'll need are as follows:

  • Burda Magazine Pattern with inserts
  • Set of colored pens or pencils
  • Highlighter, in color of your choice
  • Role of tracing paper
    • Some people use formal pattern tracing paper; I just buy a role of tracing paper from my local art supply store (its much cheaper)
  • Grided ruler, the ruler must have lines that are as granular as 1/8 inch.  I find quilting rulers to be excellent for this.  The ruler will be used to add your seam allowances.  There are other ways to do this, such as a 2-wheel tracing wheel.  We'll discuss this in detail later.



The first step is to go to extract the pattern sheets from the center of the magazine.  Notice that in the ledger of the sheet it indicates there are 4 sheets on this page from the magazine.

Then go to the instruction section for the pattern you've chosen.  I've chosen to trace pattern #117 from the 7/2014 issue of Burda Magazine.  On this sheet it will tell you where to find our pattern peices: 

Sectioned off in a rectangular box.  In this section you will see a legend for tracing your pattern.  In this case it indicates "Green pattern line, sheet C; Pattern pieces 21 to 23".  This indicates the sheet that you should go to along with the pattern piece numbers.  For this pattern there are 3 pattern pieces on sheet C.  They are pattern pieces 21 - 23, and drawn in green.  Also take note of what size pattern you need to trace.  (NOTE; in the first couple of pages in the "Instructions" section is a page entitled "Taking Measurements". Use the information in the chart to determine which size is best for you to trace based on your measurements).

 Locate Sheet C and separate it along the dotted line.  (Its easier to deal with just this sheet, versus trying to manipulate the entire page).

When you first look at the C sheet it seems very confusing.  How in the world are you going to figure out which of these lines are your pattern pieces?  Remember the pattern instructions say "GREEN PATTERNLINE".  Also it stated pattern pieces 21-23.  If you look along the border you will see
numbers listed in different colors.  So all I need to do is search for the Green 21, 22, and 23 numbers.
For my pattern, these green numbers are across the bottom of the C page.  DO NOT CUT THE PATTERN PIECES FROM THE PATTERN SHEET!
So all you need to do is go across from the number an you will find your pattern piece.  In my case
I have located the  pattern piece #22 near the Green 22 number.  I then take a highlighter and outlined the pattern in the size that I which to trace along with all marking on the pattern piece, such as waistline, etc. (in this case I used a yellow marker because my green marker was dried up.  You can use whatever color of highlighter you are most comfortable with).

Next place your tracing paper sheet on top of the highlighted pattern piece.  As I said I use tracing paper bought from a art supply store. You can get it in varying widths and yardages on a roll.
As you can see from the picture, beause of the highlighting, it is now VERY easy to see all of the lines for the pattern piece your are tracing.  By the way I like to use weight to hold my tracing paper onto the pattern sheet.

Now take one of your colored pens/pencils and trace the highlighted line for each pattern piece.  Be sure to transfer all markings onto the tracing paper and label each pattern piece.
 Remember, Burda magazine patterns DON'T INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES!  So you need to add them.  Some people prefer to add the seam allowances when cutting out the fabric.  To that it is best to use a dual tracing wheel, similar to one of the two below.  Or you can use a rotary cutter with a cutting guide.
Dual tracing wheel with a chalking cartridge .  Adjust the location of the chalking wheel.
After pinning the pattern to the fabric; align the white tracing wheel on the
seamline.  The chalk cartridge will mark your cuttingline.
Dual Tracing Wheel (image from Sewcury.com).
The wheel locations are adjustable.
Also this Dual tracing wheel requires the use of tracing paper

I prefer add my seam allowances onto my pattern pieces. To do so I use a quilting ruler that has grid lines the entire length to do this this.
For my pattern I need a 5/8 inch seam on sides; 3/8 on neckline, 3/4 on sleeve hems, and 1 1/4 for dress hemline.  Just place your seamline on the appropriate marking on your ruler.  Then use a pen of a different color to mark your cutting lines (I've use black pen here).
Add your cutting lines with the appropriate seam allowances on the entire pattern piece.  Now you can cut out your pattern pieces from the tracing paper and they are ready to use.  From here you can use them as you would a purchased pattern.

I'm off to cut out my fabric and work on my dress.

Happy Sewing. . . .

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